missing from yesterday's indispensable things list because it seems that it might not exist:* the mountain-print hooded onesie i purchased for something like twelve dollars at american eagle's soho store a few holiday seasons ago. i spent most of said holiday season trying to convince my husband, sister, and brother-in-law that they all needed onesies to match mine; i managed to precipitate the purchase of one more, but all three of them have agreed in the intervening years that i was/am always right.

it is much cheaper to fly from new york to milan than it is to fly from new york to berlin, for milan is a stopover between here and dubai; emirates will take us there and back for around $500 if we time our travel carefully, and so we do. berlin was where we wanted to spend a week this fall, however, which necessitated a train trip through the alps from italy to germany. it had been so very long since i solved a murder on an overnight train ride! (i had never been on an overnight train ride.) i booked our tickets after languorous electronic waltzes with trenitalia (for the gorgeous daytime journey from milan to zurich) and deutsche bahn (for the sleeper car from zurich to berlin), then had settled in for a really protracted search for the perfect elegant-crime-fighting-between-zurich-and-berlin-in-the-dead-of-night pajamas—i'd fired up a pinterest board and everything—when i realized that i already had what i needed.** alors, i wore my mountain-print onesie to tuck into stinky italian cheese with a knife i nicked at milano centrale, to sing along with "purple rain" in our cabin's dim blue light, to smoke on the platform at midnight in some little german village. i think agatha christie would have approved.

*i mean, it exists—i'm wearing it as i write this—but the internet says otherwise, which is both mildly disturbing and kind of comforting; machines should forget things, too.

**also i don't wear silk, which takes a lot of the fun out of looking for exotic sleepwear.

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