11.04.10: canada, part III {consumption}while joe and i have a fairly jules-in-
pulp-fiction, walk-the-earth approach to vacationing in new cities - we try to do one culturiffic thing a day, and to eat at least one significant meal, and otherwise we trail like ivy - i research ahead of time, a bit. for montreal i printed out two
new york times "
36 hours in..."
articles, a guide to local brewpubs, and the
design*sponge city guide, and i dug around the apartment until i turned up the little michelin guide i bought back in 2006. (you've been a long time coming, montreal.) all of that went into a big folder we named christina, which must have been confusing to any
nefarious québecois operatives rolling with us. "where is dieu du ciel again?" "i don't know, check with christina!" "oh, fine!"
[subject rummages in bag.]
poutine (shocker) was our first priority, and
la banquise had vegetarian gravy; alors. (full disclosure: we went back for seconds a few days later when
schwartz's deli was slammed like katz's here in new york. it was even better revisited.)
we wandered from la banquise to
baldwin barmacie, a cocktail place which also serves grilled cheese sandwiches. something about our off-menu request for dark and stormies with cuban rum* must have pleased our server, for he materialized with three shots of tequila as we were leaving. we said the right thing at that point as well, i suppose, as he then ran away and came back with...three more? montreal: friendly like chicago. the only
irritable person we encountered up there, in fact, was the poor guy at the other end of the number my out-of-date michelin guide told me to call to buy tickets for a show.
1: hello, do you still have tickets for the monster spectacular at the stade olympique tonight?
2: non!1: you mean you had them and now they're sold out?
2: non!we were watching canadian tv before bed on friday night, you see, and were informed that crushstation, the lobster monster truck, would be in montreal the following night. i didn't think much of it at the time, but i woke up on saturday morning convinced that fate was guiding us to a monster truck show in canada. i mean, i'd brought my
grave digger shirt and everything.
samedi, samedi, samedi! nous pouvons vous vendre toute la chaise, mais vous ayez besoin seulement du bord!**
i mean,
people brought vuvuzelas. it was amazing.
we spent our last afternoon buying provisions for the train at atwater market, where i had the french conversation my high school language teacher always hoped i would have ("which maple syrup is your favorite?" "it depends: are you traveling by plane or by train?" "by train! how much is this pretty one on the left?"), and we had our last dinner at
l'express, where they give each table a huge jar of cornichons just because they can. i didn't even mind that the blue moon caused a bridge fire at spuyten duyvil, a tunnel fire near penn station, and a derailment, all of which meant that we had to take a bus home in place of our lovely wine train. we mightn't be back to montreal for a while - we've got a lot of places to visit for the first time - but we'll be back.
{additional excellent places:
mckiernan for lunch (note the
bowie bathroom),
dieu du ciel for beer and, yes,
nachos,
boris bistro for an unrushed, seasonal dinner,
hotel st. paul for lovely rooms and a
superlative lobby-lounge (and ginger chocolates on our pillow each night with a handwritten card predicting the next day's weather), the
mmfa for maybe-preferable-to-moma
contemporary art.}
{full set
here.}
imaginary reading group discussion questions
01 have you ever had poutine? would you have it again?
02 does telling your spouse they can't buy a vuvuzela mean you don't really love them?
03 would you have gone to the monster spectacular?
04 how's your french?
05 have you ever been to montreal? what did you do there?
*i made an effort to find a smugglable bottle of havana club for the train ride home, but alas. they were all gigantic.
**my french has deteriorated since college. hush.
